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REPOR T




            BE READy WITH DoCuMENTATIoN                              which is the overarching legislation for cosmetics in China.
            To AVoID ANIMAL TESTINg IN CHINA                         Toothpaste, while not classified as cosmetics, is managed
            To avoid animal testing on cosmetics products registered for   by reference to the CSAR. Just as recently as December 1,
            general trade in China, companies must satisfy the following   2023, new legislation entitled Toothpaste Supervision and
            requirements:                                            Administration Regulation (TSAR) came into effect.
            1. be a “general” cosmetic only                          Applicants who already had a history of selling toothpaste
            2. the ingredients in the formula shall be already listed in the   in China were allowed to submit a simplified notification
              Inventory of Existing Cosmetics Ingredients in China, known   of their products up to and including November 30, 2023.
              as IECIC. The last version is from 2021.               This pathway is now closed and companies who wish to sell and
            3. a Product Safety Assessment Report must be submitted as part   distribute toothpaste in China must submit a notification to the
              of the submission confirming the product’s safety      NMPA. See Figure 2 for a summary of the relevant categories of
            4. a good Manufacturing practice (gMp) certificate or    cosmetics requiring approval under CSAR and TSAR in China.
              comparable certification of the quality management system
              of the applicant is required. Importantly, this GMP certificate
              must be issued by the local government / competent     ENSuRE youR EFFICACy CLAIMS
              authorities of the country (region) where the manufacturer is   ARE CHINA CoMPLIANT
              located.                                               Cosmetics registered or filed in China must specify their
                                                                     cosmetic efficacy claim. There is a defined list, including
            The difficult requirement is the GMP Certificate, because   “special” claims such as whitening, or sunscreen and “general”
            many companies will have such certificates issued by     claims such as moisturizing or hair-care. Efficacies claimed will
            an industry association or third party such as Intertek.   require proof in the form of human trials (if special efficacies)
            This is NOT acceptable if you want to avoid animal tests for   or lab tests or literature, unless they are basic efficacies
            your China approvals. Another difficulty is that the competent   which can be directly recognised by vision, smell
                                                                                                                3
            authorities of some countries, notably USA and Australia,   and other senses (eg cleansing, body refreshing).
            refuse to issue such certificates at this stage.         Therefore, brands should be aware of their cosmetics
            A possible workaround is that state or even local        efficacies or ask experts who can properly analyse the product
            government certificates can be used instead (eg the states   packaging and formula. Making more efficacy claims will
            of California and Jersey both issue GMP certificates for   mean that filings or registrations will be more expensive,
            companies located in those states, even though the US FDA   because proof is required for each efficacy claim.
            at the national level does not do so). The Italian Ministry
            of Health issues GMP certificates accepted by China.     KEEP uP To DATE WITH CHANgINg
                                                                     REguLAToRy REQuIREMENTS
                                                                     With the implementation of China’s new cosmetics framework
                                                                     under the CSAR in 2021, there are frequent ongoing updates
                                                                     and additional requirements for new approvals and for
                                                                     products already approved. Therefore, it is important that
                                                                     companies continue to stay up to date One example of an
                                                                     important regulatory update was the introduction of the
                                                                     Chinese good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetics.
                                                                     It came into effect on July 1, 2022, and applies to both
                                                                     domestically produced and imported cosmetics. The aim
                                                                     of the NMPA in introducing the GMP is to ensure that
                                                                     cosmetics are safe for consumers and to make clear that the
                                                                     responsibility for the quality, safety and efficacy of products on
                                                                     the market lies with the manufacturer who notifies or registers
                                                                     a product as well as their contract manufacturers. Since the
            PRoDuCTS WITH SPECIAL CoNSIDERATIoNS:                    Chinese GMP is still relatively new professional support from
            Children’s cosmetics are not considered a separate category,   companies with experience in Chinese regulatory affairs can
            however, if a product targets babies or children aged 12 or under,   be crucial in carrying out a gap analysis of your current Quality
            the cost and the timeframe for approval tend to be higher due   Management System as well as undertaking mock-audits to
            to stricter sample tests and application dossier requirements.  prepare you for NMPA onsite inspections.
            Soaps which have efficacy claims of “special” cosmetics are
            required to register as “special” cosmetics according to the
            Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR)   3 For the list of efficacy claims and required proofs, please contact the author.



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