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INTERVIEW

market expertise, stronger knowledge of brands that are too similar or that compete example, we have chosen to develop brands
industry players, greater credibility and directly with one another. Instead, we aim to across a broad range of price points: niche,
additional resources. But we must never lose build a portfolio of complementary brands, designer, lifestyle, kids and masstige, with
sight of the essentials: being available and both in terms of positioning, distribution prices ranging from around €30 to €250–300.
responsive to our partners and maintaining channels and geographical markets. This is In skincare, our three brands have different
a high level of service. In our marketing a strategy whose benefits I first experienced positioning, enabling us to cover a range of
organisation in particular, we constantly when I began my career as a manager at distribution channels, from perfumeries and
emphasise the connection between our L’Oréal. The key is to develop step by step, pharmacies to spas and beauty institutes.
brand strategies and the actions required without putting ourselves in a difficult It is a coherent strategy designed to address
from our distributor partners to develop position and always taking the broader global different market needs, purchasing power
our brands, increase their visibility and context into account. Some of the brands we and consumer expectations.
improve their performance. Execution — the have acquired had struggled because they
“go-to-market” actions — is key. Working lacked the resources needed to invest and EM: How important are the duty-free
on merchandising plans, promotions and remain competitive in increasingly dynamic market and airlines?
training is fundamental. and demanding markets. Within our Group, HJ: This part of our business grows every year
Our distributors need to become true they regain strength and can return to a path as our brands become more successful in
ambassadors for our brands, working with of growth in a more structured, efficient and their domestic markets. The products offered
us in a genuine spirit of partnership. All this sustainable way. through duty-free need to be particularly
energy, time and investment enables us to appealing because purchasing in this
build a long-term presence in the market EM: Which criteria of evaluation do you environment is often an impulse decision.
and allows each of our brands to achieve apply when choosing a brand? We therefore pay close attention to product
solid and sustainable growth. HJ: From the beginning, we wanted to selection and make sure that the marketing
diversify our business, with fragrances and approach is adapted to the specific
EM: Has your strategy of adding brands to skincare as our two main categories. We then characteristics of duty-free stores and airlines.
your portfolio over the years helped you expanded our portfolio to cover different For example, for Kaloo, our baby fragrance
in developing your Group? segments within these markets. The brands brand, and Kokeshi, which targets teenagers,
HJ: Yes. Reaching a critical size creates we have progressively added complement we have developed attractive gift sets and
economies of scale and provides greater and reinforce one another without being too miniature products. These are particularly
financial capacity, making further similar. Each new brand must bring genuine well suited to gifting and perform very well in
development easier. We are careful not to add added value to the portfolio. In fragrances, for this channel worldwide.

EM: How do you see your Group
developing?
HJ: Asia has been our fastest-growing region
over the past two years. China, for example,
is showing incredible energy, particularly
for our niche fragrance brands, but we are
also seeing strong potential in Korea, Japan,
Taiwan and throughout the South Pacific.
There is still enormous potential for both
our skincare and fragrance brands. That is
one of the reasons why we have a manager
based in Singapore: to stay close to local
players and gain a deeper understanding of
the culture and consumer preferences. The
Middle East, on the other hand, is the region
that has suffered the most. We all know the
geopolitical factors that have made a region
which was once one of our strongest markets
more challenging today.

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