Page 119 - EM - Export Magazine Perfumery Edition

INTERVIEW

to the building’s panoramic terrace, which has been turned into a in the entrepreneur of himself. I work a great deal in contact with
hanging garden for decorative and educational purposes, with the artists, who call me to curate the olfactory part of exhibitions and
botanical species from which the raw materials for perfumery are installations. Art is a market and so is niche perfumery. To make
obtained. We have created a very sustainable chain of supply, as a living, you have to be part of it, with the awareness that not all
local as possible, to work with a reduced impact, slowly and in part perfumery is art and, above all if you work in niche perfumery,
still by hand and of the highest quality. The aim of Vieffe Noselab is keeping your autonomy of interpretation, in the respect of the
creativity and education. It is a meeting place for clients curious to consumers and their curiosity.
know the production processes of olfactory creation, up to bottling.
The packaging can be designed and developed contextually with EM: Do you mean that perfumery focuses on an artistic aura
the fragrance thanks to the samples in the showroom and support that is not always real?
of the graphic artist. Lastly, the educational area allows bringing RV: There is a tendency to fuel an image of perfumery detached
professionals, enthusiasts, sales personnel and students of from the real world, as though it were located in a dreamlike
cosmetology closer to our world. dimension. In actual fact, consumers are interested in and trained
to discover what is behind the product: the romantic image of the
EM: How do you reconcile your soul as a master perfumer with creator of perfumes, which perfumery still uses, seems obsolete
that of an entrepreneuse in the world of niche perfumery? to me. Fragrances are prepared according to commercial briefs,
RV: For me, doing business is on the one hand a vocation and on budgets and markets which the perfumer interprets personally,
the other a necessity, The world of olfactory creation has always this is why our work is creative. But not all creativity is art and,
been difficult to access; although in the past few years the offer of even in niche perfumery, there are creations which are the result of
courses and perfumery schools has increased, when I started out more commercial logics and perfumes which are clones developed
in composition, the path to become a nose had a first compulsory from libraries. I don’t believe that we are still in the time of fairy
stage in French schools, then joining the large essence companies tales: I am convinced that telling the reality of our world is the best
on long paths of growth and always as an employee. Independent way to present it. This is why I am fascinated by education, I hold
perfumers are still rare, especially in France. In Italy the productive lessons and welcome many students of cosmetology for internships
fabric is different, but anyway to a great extent linked to the large in my facilities, to show the practical aspects of perfumery and to
multinational corporations; perhaps we owe the success of niche contribute to transforming their skills into a job.
perfumery to this and personally, I feel lucky that I had the privilege
of having experienced the development of this phenomenon. After EM: is it to break away from stereotypes that you are working
having created Coquillete in Paris, when I returned to Italy as an on a new and more personal brand project?
independent, to continue creating fragrances, I did not have many RV: I felt the need to do something completely mine, in which I can
options except to create a business of my own: referring to the niche express myself, free from any market logic, without having to move
gave me the chance to devote myself to small projects and therefore away from the idea that I intend to represent: this is the reason why
to experiment, learn, and take my first steps independently and this this brand will be my name, Rosa Vaia. It is a completely different
way build up my personal path. With respect to my creative vocation, project from Coquillete, which is a brand I continue to believe in but
I cannot see any contradictions: after all, even historically, the artist which does not represent me completely. With Rosa Vaia I intend to

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