Page 119 - EM - Export Magazine Perfumery Edition
P. 119

INTERVIEW



































          to the building’s panoramic terrace, which has been turned into a   in the entrepreneur of himself. I work a great deal in contact with
          hanging garden for decorative and educational purposes, with the   artists, who call me to curate the olfactory part of exhibitions and
          botanical species from which the raw materials for perfumery are   installations. Art is a market and so is niche perfumery. To make
          obtained. We have created a very sustainable chain of supply, as   a living, you have to be part of it, with the awareness that not all
          local as possible, to work with a reduced impact, slowly and in part   perfumery  is  art  and,  above  all  if  you  work  in  niche  perfumery,
          still by hand and of the highest quality. The aim of Vieffe Noselab is   keeping your autonomy of interpretation, in the respect of the
          creativity and education. It is a meeting place for clients curious to   consumers and their curiosity.
          know the production processes of olfactory creation, up to bottling.
          The  packaging  can  be  designed  and  developed  contextually  with   EM: Do you mean that perfumery focuses on an artistic aura
          the fragrance thanks to the samples in the showroom and support   that is not always real?
          of the graphic artist. Lastly, the educational area allows bringing   RV: There is a tendency to fuel an image of perfumery detached
          professionals, enthusiasts, sales personnel  and students of   from the real world, as though it were located in a dreamlike
          cosmetology closer to our world.                           dimension. In actual fact, consumers are interested in and trained
                                                                     to discover what is behind the product: the romantic image of the
          EM: How do you reconcile your soul as a master perfumer with   creator of perfumes, which perfumery still uses, seems obsolete
          that of an entrepreneuse in the world of niche perfumery?  to  me.  Fragrances are  prepared according  to  commercial  briefs,
          RV: For me, doing business is on the one hand a vocation and on   budgets and markets which the perfumer interprets personally,
          the other a necessity, The world of olfactory creation has always   this is why our work is creative. But not all creativity is art and,
          been difficult to access; although in the past few years the offer of   even in niche perfumery, there are creations which are the result of
          courses and perfumery schools has increased, when I started out   more commercial logics and perfumes which are clones developed
          in composition, the path to become a nose had a first compulsory   from libraries. I don’t believe that we are still in the time of fairy
          stage in French schools, then joining the large essence companies   tales: I am convinced that telling the reality of our world is the best
          on long paths of growth and always as an employee. Independent   way to present it. This is why I am fascinated by education, I hold
          perfumers are still rare, especially in France. In Italy the productive   lessons and welcome many students of cosmetology for internships
          fabric is different, but anyway to a great extent linked to the large   in my facilities, to show the practical aspects of perfumery and to
          multinational corporations; perhaps we owe the success of niche   contribute to transforming their skills into a job.
          perfumery to this and personally, I feel lucky that I had the privilege
          of having experienced the development of this phenomenon. After   EM: is it to break away from stereotypes that you are working
          having created Coquillete in Paris, when I returned to Italy as an   on a new and more personal brand project?
          independent, to continue creating fragrances, I did not have many   RV: I felt the need to do something completely mine, in which I can
          options except to create a business of my own: referring to the niche   express myself, free from any market logic, without having to move
          gave me the chance to devote myself to small projects and therefore   away from the idea that I intend to represent: this is the reason why
          to experiment, learn, and take my first steps independently and this   this brand will be my name, Rosa Vaia. It is a completely different
          way build up my personal path. With respect to my creative vocation,   project from Coquillete, which is a brand I continue to believe in but
          I cannot see any contradictions: after all, even historically, the artist   which does not represent me completely. With Rosa Vaia I intend to

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